Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.
This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally surprised.
“I am completely astonished,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.
The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.
In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.
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